a3hsa idr7z trara h2b2e 5aiee 3kb76 b7tin yzt9s es8e7 8nyab 45ba8 f3iiy eks3z 7hhnh 3t322 zybfz e8nf8 kr224 h5d4s 3z489 92t3k What is the easiest way to split up a large model? |

What is the easiest way to split up a large model?

2022.01.20 11:21 Gangrif What is the easiest way to split up a large model?

So, I am deciding whether I want to try a costume armor print. I have an Endre 5 Pro, 200x200 build plate. Not big enough to print full pieces for stuff like helmets and chest pieces. Yes, if I end up doing this a lot I would probably consider upgrading to something with a larger print bed, but this is what I have for now.
I started looking at this, it looked like Tinkercad would be simple enough, but it doesn't work with the model I am using to test this out, as it's larger than 25mb, and that's the tinkercad limit. So I fell back to Fustion 360. I am an almost complete newb at Fusion 360, I've used it to make some VERY simple prints, mostly simple geometric shapes that served some simple purposes. I found some very good howto's on youtube, but they all seem to have an older fusion 360 interface than mine does. I am on fusion 360 2.0.
So I guess I'm looking for EITHER a good fusion 360 2.0 tutorial, or a suggestion for another method that might be easier.
Thanks!
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2022.01.20 11:21 virtualgirl_12 Pandemic, mental breakdown and a terrible breakup later

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2022.01.20 11:21 PanasheGombedza My ranking of ye’s discography W or L?

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2022.01.20 11:21 LeagueOfRiotBot Phreak talking about balancing the wind-bros (and also taking shots at Reddit) [RiotRayYonggi]

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2022.01.20 11:21 Dhorlin The Montgomery Guards - a growler gang in Manhattan. ca.1890.

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2022.01.20 11:21 Mynewsify-Website Bomb blast kills 3 people in eastern Pakistan: Police, Latest News

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2022.01.20 11:21 businessyndicate 5 things to know before the stock market opens Thursday

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2022.01.20 11:21 tickeron_community Stock Pattern Three Rising Valleys ZGNX on October 14, 2021

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2022.01.20 11:21 Aeri73 06 - Pipes and buckets

Welcome to the second part of this photography class. After getting an overview of what a camera is and how focal length works, let’s now go on to what is probably the most important and scariest parameter of any photograph: exposure.
Introduction
In order to keep things (relatively) short, we will split this vast subject into many small digestible pieces. In this lesson, we will see what exactly exposure is, and how we can use three camera controls to modify it. In the next lesson, we will talk about a very important tool for reviewing exposure: the histogram. In the subsequent three lessons, we will talk about each of the three controls (shutter speed, aperture and ISO) in more detail. Finally, we will discuss the slightly arcane topic of metering modes.
Climber on Flying Buttress Direct.
A photograph, as the name suggests, is a record of light. Exposure, quite simply, is the amount of light to which the sensor is exposed. We are all familiar with photos taken indoor without a flash and which appear too dark: they are underexposed, not enough light was allowed on the sensor. Conversely (though perhaps more rarely), we have also seen images too bright, with pure white in large areas: they are overexposed.
There is not one correct exposure of a given scene – depending on what you are trying to say with your image, you might actually over or underexpose on purpose. For instance, a backlit scene could be underexposed to create silhouettes against the sky. Or a portrait might be carefully overexposed to create a high-key feeling. However, what we will generally consider a good exposure is one with an even (but not necessarily linear, as we will see tomorrow) distribution of tones, from pure black to pure white, with no details lost to either shadows or highlights.
With the exception of some very manual film cameras, all modern camera bodies include one or several light meters, whose role is to measure the quantity of light and give a guess of what the correct exposure should be. What you will do with this information will depend on the shooting mode you are using: in auto, the camera will simply set all the required parameters so that you can shoot without questions asked. Alternatively, it can let you set one or more parameters and fill in the remaining ones (aperture or speed priority modes), or it can let you do the whole thing yourself, mentioning how your settings compare to what it thinks you should do, but not acting on it (manual mode).
3 parameters
Three, and only three, parameters control the quantity of light to reach the sensor. They are the usual suspects: aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Let’s see briefly how they work with an analogy.
Imagine that your sensor is a bucket. Light is water coming from a pipe (your lens) into the bucket. What you want to achieve is a good exposure – just the right quantity of water, to the rim but without spilling any on the floor. You can achieve that by doing three things:

You can decide to modify any of these parameters as you wish to achieve your perfect bucket, with some limitations of course: for instance, you can’t have a pipe of infinite diameter, there is a maximum size. Likewise, your pressure can't be to high or you might spill more water than you'll get in the bucket.
Something that is extremely important to realize is that all three parameters are bound together. If you modify one and want to keep the same exposure, you need to modify another in the opposite direction. For instance, if you want to use a pipe with twice as much area (doubling the flow), you need to either cut the flow duration by half or use a pressure half big. Modifying a single parameter will result in a modification of the bucket content and that should not happen.
As you probably guessed already, the diameter of the pipe corresponds to the aperture, the duration to the shutter speed and the pressure to the ISO. Things get even more interesting because each of these parameters has another consequence beside modifying exposure: aperture changes depth of field, shutter speed can introduce motion blur and ISO modifies the noise levels.
Model and bluebells
In practice
Let’s be a little more concrete. When you put your camera in a non-automatic mode (if it has one, if not, you can look at the metadata of old photos to find this information), you should see three numbers in the display, for instance f/8, 1/50, ISO 400 (the ISO is often hidden, you may have to hunt it down in the menus). What this is telling you is that the aperture is f/8, the speed 1/50th of a second and the ISO is 400. What you want these numbers to be will be covered in the next lessons. For now, let’s take a look at how modifying them changes exposure.
Put your camera in A mode. What this does is let you control the aperture and set the shutter speed accordingly. Turn the control wheel in one direction to modify the aperture. You should now see instead f/5.6 (if you turned in the correct direction). What this is telling you is that you are now using a wider pipe diametre and have doubled the flow. What you should notice is that the speed changed as well: now it is showing 1/100, and the ISO hasn’t changed. To compensate for the modification of one parameter, the camera changed another one, and kept the same overall exposure.
If you do want to modify the overall exposure while in a mode other than manual, you should use the aptly named button called “exposure compensation”. What this will do will depend on the mode you are using, for instance if you are in Aperture Priority, it will change the shutter speed to fill the bucket to a different level, while leaving you in control of the aperture.
Red
In manual mode, the camera lets you modify all three parameters yourself without attempting to compensate and keep the same global exposure. It will usually let you know how far away you are from what it considers the correct exposure, but whether you want to follow its recommendation is up to you. In this mode, since we have full control anyway, the exposure compensation button is useless.
Where are we now?
This should hopefully give you a good idea of what is going on in a camera brain, and what the A, S and M modes are for, but we have left a lot of things out, to be covered in the next lessons. For now, make sure you have really understood all the concepts here, as they are absolutely crucial for the rest of this course (and of your photographic career). Food close-up.
the assignment is here.
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2022.01.20 11:21 HotBus3942 IMPORTANT UPDATES: The Economic Nosedive Worsens. Markets, Stocks, Gold,...

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2022.01.20 11:21 truestorez What one hit wonder do you wish would have made it?

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2022.01.20 11:21 JoeMayosChair Resume Help

I'm working on updating my resume and having some trouble with putting numbers (X% increase in users, Y% increase in revenue, etc. ) to the projects I have worked on. I work on a core product within our SaaS application that 99.99% of users work with everyday. I have delivered new features & optimizations over the years - in addition to bug fixes, performance improvements, etc. - but I'm struggling with highlighting those features on my resume as they don't specifically bring in new clients or drive new users, but all new clients/users are going to interact with them.
Anybody have a similar situation or advice on how to frame these?
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2022.01.20 11:21 Asartea Announcing a new Living World event: The Urchin War

Crossposted from Discord:

Today we're launching a small event in Spite, available to all players. A new Living World event: the Urchin War.
It seems the trouble is all over Spite. One cannot walk through Flowerdene Market without being caught in the crossfire. Ordinary citizens are racing across the district with plates strapped to their heads to avoid messy projectiles hurled from the roofs.
The event will run for roughly a week or until the morning after one side achieves victory! We expect to run this event again at various times in the future.
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